Notes from Madras

Colonel Wyvern, stationed with the army in Madras during the height of British imperial rule, opened a cookery school upon his return to England and was a passionate enthusiast for both European and Indian cuisine. In these vivid, common-sense and entertaining writings, he gives advice on re-creating French classics in the steaming heat; describes tiffin parties and cooking while at camp; and laments the declining popularity of curry in the Raj, providing foolproof recipes for curry powder, tamarind chutney, korma and ‘mulligatunny’ soup. With devotees including Elizabeth David, Wyvern’s unique brand of anglo-Indian cookery is still reflected in the way we eat today.